Question New Dutch SC-2/420 user

Hi All,
I just finished assembling my SC2-420, using a UC100 with UCCNC software. Overall it looks like the perfect choice. I did bump into several (smaller) issue during the assembly, of which one really bad aligned lead screw nut was difficult to modify. In general I would have liked higher quality screws, the button head cap screws are not suited to take apart more often, and will ruin your tools in no-time. I will probably replace them with socket head screws, where appropriate.
The only thing that strikes me is the amount of noise the steppers make. Would that be normal ? I plotted the demo Stepcraft logo on paper, I almost donned ear protection

I will be using the machine mainly for isolation routing of PCBs (initially using a Dremel) and 3D printing (using the 3D print-head).

Cheers,
Peter

Hi Peter,

welcome! Referring to your "noise" problem it's better to show us a short YOUTUBE video since describing a noise in words is hard

I did also some first PCB isolation experiments but can be a little bit hard until you have success. So firstly instead of using UCCNC I used ESTLCAM and an ARDUINO with the autoleveling feature with great success.

ESTLCAM- autoleveling

But also I found now an autoleveling feature macro here:

UCCNC-autoleveling

You need to be a member of this forum!

There are some videos on youtube: Video

Thanks Hartmut,
the UCCNC Autoleveling looks promising.
-Peter-

Hi Hllpet,

Here another durch user of SC 1/420.
I make PCB with some help from MFD, how take a piece 12 or 18 mm MDF and than make a pocket of 1mm deep in the size of your PCB printboard. First you make the machine bed equal and second your print material won't move if you fixed it with a little double sited tape (Carpet tape is very thin and works well, clean with thinner).
I use a 60 deg V-bit and that works fine.







SC 1/420, Proxxon ISB/EW, WINPC-USB, Aspire 8.0, Coppercam

Hi Peter,

I'm interested to read that you are intending to make printed wiring boards on your 420/2. I have made a number, and after several failures now have a reasonable technique established.

My design path is via Cadsoft "Eagle" schematic and layout editor (free edition) to establish the starting point, then I use a free ulp (user language programme) to extract GCODE which will run directly under UCCNC - no editing required once the "etching" parameters are optimised.

It is vital that the copper clad laminate - which I would assume to be FR4, is absolutely flat and level if you are to reliably etch track and isolation distances of the order of 250 microns or less.

I would strongly recommend that you start by leveling your sacrificial layer by milling it flat - I found that I could achieve this to better than 25 microns over a 100 x200 area. Prove this with a dial gauge before starting, otherwise you are eating away at your error margins.

The FR4 must be absolutely flat whilst milling - it is not good enough just to tape down the periphery, either use a vacuum table or double sided tape over the whole board area. I've tried both with success and much prefer the vacuum table approach personally. I made my own and milled it flat.

I use a 30 degree etching bit and mill to a depth of 250 microns or less. Use a tool length sensor or an electrical contact method to set your Z-axis zero precisely (better than 25 microns can be achieved electrically).

For accuracy it is important to set the backlash compensation on X and Y axes, otherwise registration of pads and holes will be somewhat haphazard!!

I am currently getting to grips with SMD's and at present only the larger IC packages with 1/2mm lead spacing are 100% successful. I intend to modify my machine soon to use ball screws and nuts so as to further improve backlash and overall accuracy - I should then be able to use even smaller SMD's

Here is one of my very early efforts using 0.1" devices. No holes drilled, just markers on this one.



These are for real and are a working lf radio receiver



Peter

Looking good! I will try to compensate for flatness using Linegrinder type software first. If you flatten the MDF first, I am still wondering how accurate the PCB will follow the flatness of the MDF.
Cheers,

-Hillpet-