840 almost there but white baseplate problem

Hi Frank,

Interesting that you had a problem with your XZ cable, I did with mine on an SC420/2 a couple of years ago. This has been highlighted many times and still STEPCRAFT HAVE NOT CORRECTED THIS - LISTEN AND TAKE ACTION!!!

I think you may have to relieve the baseplate by some judicious sanding or bending. Mine was certainly not flat but could be fitted with a little force!! You might be able to correct any distortion by the application of some gentle heat ( < 100 degrees C) with a hair dryer, as it's probably a resin bonded item.

Probable best to let it cool before trying to refit, otherwise you might need a bigger hammer if it warps again when it cools. 👿

IMHO it would be wise to do your "tuning" without the baseplate fitted, but make sure the workbench really is flat and not twisting the machine. By the way, don't overtighten the moveable rollers - 1/4 is far to much in my view, just touching is sufficient in my experience otherwise you might get the axis jamming at some point.

Good luck!!

Peter

Thank you, Peter

Doing the fine tuning and getting the axes to move before trying to fix that baseplate issue is a good idea.
Already did some carefull little sanding of the baseplate edges with a slight improvment but it will need more I think.

Frank

Just to get it right, you kept the screws of the end plate (Both sides, front and rear of the machine) unfastened when setting in the base plate?
I am not sure if it is really a good idea to do the fine tuning without the base plate, you might get some unwanted tension to the portal/screws after inserting it.

BR
Roy

I had a similar problem with my baseplate but that was related to some minor damage of the aluminium profile inside.
So it needed some finishing with a rasp and then it was ok.

Roy, I think the most important thing is not to have the machine twisted, I can't see how it can be properly set up if it's distorted.

Frank, If you can achieve no distortion with the baseboard in place, then fine, otherwise be wary, you may be eating away at the torque margins of the steppers.

Peter

If i followed de manual correctly the front and back plate must be fastened before inserting the baseplate. I expected that it would slide in quite easy with some minor force but from the beginning there so much resistance that i need to block the machine on a bench against the wall using wood blocks for protection. There so much increasing friction and tension that it remains stuck 20 cm from the end. Taking it out again is real pita, carrefully hammering it back with a small hamer and woodblock.
I did loosen the bolts from the front and backplate and tried again but this didn't make much difference other than more frustration because the metal botom plate jumped out of its groove 👿

It looks like the top of the both borders lengthwise of the baseplate are machined to fit into the groove of the alu sides. I'm pretty sure something is not correct and out of specs. I even suspect that the overall dimension of this plate is wrong, even a couple of mm. The plate is not bent.

Patience and carefull sanding is next, i feel i have no other choice. I hope that the AL T nut plate that i wanted to buy some day in the future has a better fit, it better is :huh: at the price this thing is selling...

Frank

Frank,

Something is badly amiss if you had to resort to such drastic methods - sounds like a horror story, is it too wide?

My T slot baseplate fitted like a dream - expensive but it stabilises the machine and makes work-piece holding so much more versatile.

As you say, sanding your baseplate is now your only recourse to making it fit. Remember the old adage - measure twice, cut once!!

Happy sanding!!

Peter

Yep, I also had to sand the baseplate borders because it was impossible to slide in. Bad design is bad.

Just to get it right, you kept the screws of the end plate (Both sides, front and rear of the machine) unfastened when setting in the base plate?
I am not sure if it is really a good idea to do the fine tuning without the base plate, you might get some unwanted tension to the portal/screws after inserting it.

BR
Roy

Agreed but as Peter says, probably this advice is most relevant for the rigid aluminum T-slot tables.

Yep, I also had to sand the baseplate borders because it was impossible to slide in. Bad design is bad.

I also sanded mine edges to assist smooth insertion but ultimately had to loosen the end plates to get it fully home thus undoing the mechanical tuning I had just completed.

Doug

Thankfully Stepcraft is paying attention to the problems and complaints showing up in the forum, and can come up with appropriate and timely measures to correct and prevent them for the following production batches. Stepctaft's concern with client satisfaction is paramount.

Thankfully Stepcraft is paying attention to the problems and complaints showing up in the forum, and can come up with appropriate and timely measures to correct and prevent them for the following production batches. Stepctaft's concern with client satisfaction is paramount.

What evidence do you have for this statement? Have Stepcraft told you that they're paying attention to problems and complaints showing up in the forum?

When will problems with excessive powder coating in the end plates be fixed in the production batches for example? It would be nice to know when we can all expect to be able to claim some warranty replacements.

Doug

Buy a kit 420 I do not have problems with the plate, but I have to make bushings to all the bearings of the 4 axes to be able to adjust them since they do not
Could be fixed to the housings.
The adjustment of the axles was less than 1/4 of a turn as the adjustment of 1/4 slowed the car a lot.
The screws adjust the carriage at both ends and then turn it all the way.
The bushings I built them with a Boley lathe since I dedicate myself to repair of aeronautical instruments.
Thank you!
Anibal

Hi,

IMHO it is unlikely that Stepcraft will make any real improvements to the product as long as this forum is acting as their customer service and complaints dept.

I believe that what is needed is a quality assurance manager who will identify and collate all the various problems as they arise. Only then will the extent of these problems become clear so that targeted remedial action can be taken.

Peter

Hi Peter,

you are right. I had also a problem with the base-plate but fortunately is was the only one with exception of the UC100 which died after some month but was exchanged at no charge.

However I mailed the problem with the base-plate or better say the damaged alu-profiles to Stepcraft with a notice to the qulity department...
I got the answer that because I fixed it myself now no action is neccessary.

I believe that Stepcraft is handling each issue as an individual one and decide from case to case what to do.
I also cannot see that there is really a quality control collecting issues and steer and control external vendors or stimulate internal employess to have an eye on 100% quality.

Fortunately for me my 2/420 is running very well since end of 2015 but I must say I'm an model- and electronics-hobbyist since many many years as well as I'm working as a technician in a quality department...